LAST CHANCE
On the Spot: Panoramic Gaze on Istanbul, a History
Despite the vast changes and urban scars accumulated over time, Istanbul’s unique topography makes it instantly recognizable in the old photographs, engravings, and drawings displayed in this long-running exhibition at the Pera Museum. Centered around an early 19th-century ink-and-watercolor panorama of the city displayed in a rotunda style, the collection of works dates from the 15th to the 20th centuries. Their fine details invite visitors to scour the vintage images for landmarks still identifiable today – and perhaps debate whether the exhibition is a depoliticized exercise in nostalgia or a subtle call to protect what’s left of Istanbul’s urban texture.
➡️ Hot tip: for readers outside of Istanbul, there’s a 3D virtual tour of the exhibition on the museum’s website (scroll down to the bottom of the page) and an animated version of a panorama originally made in 1800 on its YouTube channel.
Exhibition runs until 18 August
Pera Museum
Meşrutiyet Caddesi No:65, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu
Admission 100 TL; open Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, Fri 10am-10pm (free admission after 6pm), Sun noon-6pm
Mat Collishaw: Arrhythmia
British artist Mat Collishaw’s two room-sized video installations at Borusan Contemporary are visually imaginative and hauntingly emotive enough to move even the viewer dubious about digital art (it me 🙋🏼♀️). “Heterosis” (pictured above) drifts through grand but crumbling galleries where a jungle of plants grows around gilt-framed Baroque paintings, while “Even to the End” swoops over an island ravaged by fire – and follows some fragile seedlings cast adrift from the devastation. Collishaw’s other works here likewise play on themes of nature, science, technology, and looming apocalypse.
In addition to the Arrhythmia exhibition, selections from the Borusan Contemporary Art Collection are displayed throughout the office spaces in the building. Don’t miss the spectacular view from the roof deck, with the second Bosphorus Bridge soaring overhead.
➡️ Hot tip: A Turkish breakfast at Kale or one of the other kahvaltı joints lining the waterfront is a classic pairing with a Borusan visit, but there’s now a new eating option right downstairs: the flavorful and friendly Sahra Uygur Restaurant & Hotpot.
Exhibition runs until 18 August
Borusan Contemporary
Baltalimanı Hisar Caddesi, Perili Köşk No:5, Rumelihisarı/Sarıyer
Admission 150 TL; open Sat-Sun only 10am-7pm
August Outdoor Festivals
Soundscape Festival (10 to 11 August) – Electronic music sets, yoga sessions, cocktail workshops, and handicrafts for sale at Lifepark in Bahçeköy, tickets from 2,000 TL. THIS WEEKEND
Summer Olympics (through 11 August) – Watch the rest of the Paris 2024 Games on the big screens set up in Kalamış Park and in Kadıköy Festival Park near the ferry piers. Free. THIS WEEKEND
Kalamış Summer Festival (12 August to 8 September) – A full lineup of musical performances and film screenings in Kalamış Atatürk Park by the seafront in the Kadıköy district. Tickets 100 TL per event with an option to donate an extra 100 TL to support the care of street animals.
Zeytinli Rock Festivali (21 to 25 August) – Popular Turkish rock bands including Duman, Athena, Mor Ve Ötesi, and Pentagram play at Sarıgerme Plajı in Ortaca, Muğla, where camping options are available. Tickets from 200 TL. IN MUĞLA 🏖
Whatafest (21 to 25 August) – Musical performances by the likes of Gaye Su Akyol, Büyük Ev Ablukada, Can Bonomo, Islandman, and Teoman, along with camping, workshops, dance, and sports at this festival in Foça, İzmir. Tickets from 550 TL. IN FOÇA 🏖
Cultural News in Brief 🗞
A €20 admission fee will be introduced as of 19 August for "tourist visits" to the Chora Church, a historical site in Istanbul’s Fatih district famed for its rich decoration of late Byzantine era mosaics and frescoes. Access to the building, which has been operating as the Kariye Mosque since May, will be restricted to Muslim worshippers on Fridays, according to the same statement by Turkey’s culture and tourism minister.
The exhibition “Neither You Bow Nor I Stand” at Artİstanbul Feshane, featuring works by the late Emin Barın, one of Turkey's most noted modern calligraphers, has been extended until 18 August.
The Irish post-punk band Fontaines DC have cancelled their scheduled 20 August concert at Zorlu PSM in Istanbul, calling on venue owner Zorlu Holding to “fully divest from the supply of energy to Israel while it carries out what the International Court of Justice now agrees is plausibly a genocide.”
A “very rare” hoard of gold coins from the Persian Empire that feature the figure of a kneeling archer has been found during excavations of the ancient city of Notion, located on Turkey’s Aegean Coast north of Kuşadası.
Mark Your Calendars 🗓
Autumn is the season when the cultural scene roars back into life after the summer lull. Look for more on some of these events in upcoming editions of Istanbul etc.
24 August to 27 October – Kommagene Biennial 🚙
6 to 8 September – Bozcaada Caz Festival 🚙
13 to 21 September – Istanbul Fringe Festival
23 to 29 September – Adana Golden Boll Film Festival 🚙
28 September to 13 October – 212 Photography Istanbul
28 September to 13 October – Akbank Jazz Festival
4 to 13 October – Filmekimi Film Festival
4 October to 11 November – Çanakkale Biennial 🚙
5 to 12 October – Antalya Golden Orange Film Festival 🚙
18 to 20 October – Diyarbakır Short Film Festival 🚙
22 October to 19 November – Istanbul Theater Festival
24 to 27 October – Contemporary Istanbul
(Please note: Inclusion on this preliminary list does not guarantee that these events will have bilingual offerings. A 🚙 indicates that the event is in a location other than Istanbul.)
Summery Reads ☀️ 🏖
Remembering summers in Marmaris and the vibrancy of Turkish food – For writer Carla Kay, annual visits to see relatives in Turkey have helped her bond with her culture and navigate her life in New York. by Carla Kay for Hyphen.
An Inherited Offense – In a Levantine family, on the island of Leros, an abundance of trees and medicinal plants have the power to heal. Fiction by Nektaria Anastasiadou for The Markaz Review.
Muestras Konsejas: Yogurt in Sephardi Life. A memoir of childhood summers on Büyükada by Nesi Altaras, published by the Stroum Center for Jewish Studies.
Dondurma: The Turkish ice cream eaten with a knife and fork – Dense, stretchy and durable, dondurma isn't like any other ice cream you'll find, and the epicentre of its production is still reeling from the powerful earthquakes that decimated the nation. by Paul Benjamin Osterlund for BBC Travel.
Gazoz Is the Drink of Modern Turkey – Emerging alongside the Turkish nation, gazoz soda has splintered into countless local brands, encapsulating the quintessential flavors and evolving tastes of the country’s diverse regions. by Joshua Levkowitz for Eater.
Other Recommended Reads 📚
Postcard from Istanbul: Turkey's carpet traders weather the economic storm – Despite competition from cheap imports, traders of handwoven rugs refuse to give up on preserving the region's traditional textiles. by Lizzie Porter for The National.
Tracing steps in Istanbul, a heritage trail through the Turkish megacity – Lale Arikoglu tracks down her heritage in Istanbul, a beguiling city being reshaped by a new generation. by Lale Arikoglu for Condé Nast Traveller.
Nothing In Its Place: The historic drama centred on Turkey's deadly 1978 Bahçelievler massacre – Inspired by a true story, filmmaker Burak Çevik reconstructs a night of deadly attacks by right-wing extremists on leftist students in 1978 Ankara. A film review by Mariana Hristova for The New Arab.
A late-breaking addition to the August Outdoor Festivals list: Habitat Live music festival in Şişli Habitat Park (near Maçka Park) from 12 August through 8 September. Tickets are cheap and help support the municipality’s programs to help street animals, new moms, and others in need.
https://mobilet.com/tr/parent-event-detail/sisli-belediyesi-habitat-live-268/